Transfer the paper patterns to ½ inch plywood and use these as router templates or carefully trace around the patterns on 4mm Okoume plywood as per the thickness marked on the patterns.

Use a bandsaw or jigsaw to cut on the outside of the pencil lines. Sand or plane the lines to the pencil lines by hand. Look down the edge and make certain the curves are fair with no flat spots. Bevel the edges using a small hand plane.

When stitched together the inside edges should touch, allowing the epoxy to fill both sides of the seam. Stitch the keel together first. Make the stitches tight.

Stitch the bow and sern onto the keel pieces. Keep the stitches tight.

Stitch the side to the keel bottom. Do not make the stitch overly tight at this time.

Temporarily place the deck in place using attack nails and use a 45" spreader 47" from the back corner.

Flip the ET over. Tighten and straighten the seams.

Brush thickened epoxy on all the seams inside and out. Keep the ET flat by letting the bow sit on your bench and use equal height blocks on the transom. Let the ET sit overnight.

Remove all the stitches and sand the outside of the hull and sand the outside. Roll the ET over and glue the rubber mount backing plate as close to t he bottom of the ET as possible. Add a one inch strip of fiberglass tape to all the seams.

Measure three inches forward of the rudder backing plate and place a piece of tape. Do not make a pencil mark. Trim the rear flotation tank until it perfectly fits the transom and glue into place using staples or small tack nails.

Trim the side flotation tanks and tack nail them into place. Brush thickened epoxy over the seams. Remove the nails, sand the excess epoxy and glass over the inside. You might want to remove the deck at this time. Leave the gunwale spreader in place.

Lay the inside cloth on the hull and carefully smooth by hand. Trim the cloth leaving one extra over the tanks. Add the side and end pieces of cloth after applying the resin in the bottom.

Make sure there are no air bubbles in the corners.

Lay the fiberglass cloth on the hull starting from the keel to the gunwales. Get yourself one inch extra all around. This will get you double overlaps at the keel, bow and stern. After you spread the epoxy add the bow and transom cloth.

Try to keep the excess resin to a minimum. The cloth should have a satin look when finished. Lightly sand the seams and trim the overhang after the epoxy has cured.

Epoxy the deck in place. Screw and glue the gunwales in place.

Install the stern knees. The transom piece can be any style. We used an integrated gudgeons backing plate.

Glue the mast step in place and fiberglass all four sides. Make sure the mast is square to the deck.

Cut the center of the shearwaters at 9 degrees. Bevel the edge of the deck to match the shearwaters and glue in place.

Test fit the seat, seat support and centerboard trunk. Use the class rules for placement. Carefully check the trunk to be centered in the hull and aligned with the mast/rudder. Take your time! When are you happy with the fit, epoxy all the parts at one time and clamp in place. Check the trunk alignment. Spread thickened epoxy around the trunk base and place fiberglass cloth over the fillet. Rejoice, because you are nearly finished.

Roll the ET over and roll epoxy over the outside of the hull. After is has hardened. sand the outside with 120 grit sandpaper and start the varnishing process. We recommend a good quality UV rated spar varnish to seal the entire ET. Lightly sand between coats using 220 grit sand paper. The final coat can by sprayed or slowly brushed using foam brushes.